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The color changing nicheless light for your pool, matched to what runs it and what is in the wall. Answer three questions and we hand you the one CaliGlow Pro that fits, or tell us the light you are replacing and we match it.
Three questions about your pool. One light, or the two or three that fit, with the answers you gave restated so you can check them.
The controller decides the series. If the pool already has working color lights, their brand is the answer: MicroBrites mean Pentair.
Look at the base of the old light, or at the fitting itself. CaliGlow Pro needs 7 inches of clearance behind a threaded fitting, so a MicroBrite swap is worth a measurement.
One unbroken cord from the fitting through the conduit to the junction box. Code allows no splice, so measure the conduit, not the pool, and size up when in doubt. The old light's cord length is usually printed on its label.
P-Series speaks Pentair IntelliBrite. It is the light for a pool run by IntelliTouch, EasyTouch or IntelliCenter, and the one body that seats in Pentair's GloBrite twist-lock niche, a MicroBrite's threaded fitting or a ColorVision bubbler. Most replacement buyers are shopping P.
J-Series speaks Jandy WaterColors, for AquaLink and iAquaLink pools. It drops into the Jandy TruFit bubbler or any threaded 1-1/2 inch fitting, which is where a HydroCool in Jandy mode sits today.
H-Series speaks Hayward ColorLogic in the same Jandy body, for OmniLogic, ProLogic and Aqua Plus pools built with HydroCool fixtures in Hayward mode, and for new construction on Hayward automation. It is not a fit for the Hayward ColorLogic 320 or 160, which seal into bare pipe with a gasket the H-Series does not have.
Measure the conduit from the fitting to the junction box, not the distance across the deck. Code allows no splice, so the cord has to make it in one run. When it is close, size up: extra cord coils in the junction box, a short cord goes back in the box.
| Where the equipment pad sits | Typical run | Order |
|---|---|---|
| Beside the pool | Under 45 ft of conduit | 50 ft |
| Across the yard, most inground pools | 45 to 95 ft | 100 ft |
| A far pad or a long conduit route | 95 to 145 ft | 150 ft |
| Replacing a light | The old cord's length is on its label | Match it. A 30 ft GloBrite: call us |
900 lumens from a 2.2 inch face. Five fixed colors and seven shows, from the switch or the controller.Tell us which light is in the wall now. We match the CaliGlow Pro that takes its place, and name the one thing to check before you order.
The name is on the face ring or the label on the cord at the junction box. A light that turns an eighth and lifts out is a GloBrite; one that unthreads is a MicroBrite, a HydroCool or a Color Splash.
CaliGlow Pro is about twice the length of a MicroBrite. From the top thread of the wall fitting to where the pipe reduces to conduit, the plumbing needs 7 inches. A pool built with MicroBrites usually has it; a MicroBrite swapped in for old fiber optic lighting often does not.
The letter at the end of the part number says which protocol the light speaks. No letter is Jandy mode, P is Pentair mode, H is Hayward mode. S is the Savi series, and CaliGlow compatibility with it is unconfirmed.
If other lights on the pool still work, their brand tells us the protocol.
Match the old light's cord: its length is printed on the label at the junction box end. Code allows no splice, so when it is close, size up.
Sealed LED pool lights die of heat: pool owner forums put their life at two to four years, and nothing inside is serviceable. The core of a CaliGlow Pro is solid 316 stainless with machined grooves that pull pool water across it while the light runs, so the LED junction runs up to 40% cooler than a sealed polymer housing. It holds over 90% of its 900 lumens past 30,000 hours, on 19 watts, from the transformer the old light already used.
The P-Series seats in the Pentair GloBrite niche with locking tabs and dual O-rings, threads into a MicroBrite's 1-1/2 inch fitting, and drops into the ColorVision bubbler. The J and H drop into the Jandy TruFit bubbler or a threaded fitting, in place of a HydroCool in Jandy or Hayward mode. Two honest limits: a MicroBrite swap needs 7 inches of clearance behind the fitting, so measure before ordering, and the Hayward ColorLogic 320 and 160 are not a fit, because they seal into bare pipe with a gasket the H-Series does not carry. For those we stock the genuine ColorLogic 320, 50 ft and 100 ft.
From the owner's manual: the wall fitting, the pipe sleeve and the 7 inch minimum, fiberglass or vinyl on the left, gunite on the right.Match your automation. Pentair IntelliTouch, EasyTouch or IntelliCenter takes the P-Series. Jandy AquaLink or iAquaLink takes the J-Series. Hayward OmniLogic, ProLogic or Aqua Plus takes the H-Series. No automation? Every series works from a plain switch, so match the brand of the light you are replacing. If the pool already has working lights, their brand tells you the protocol.
Yes, the P-Series threads into the same 1-1/2 inch fitting, but the CaliGlow body is about twice the length of a MicroBrite and needs 7 inches of clearance behind the wall fitting. Measure before ordering, especially on a fiber optic conversion. Unsure? Call (888) 751-8084 and we will confirm fit.
Yes, the P-Series. The GloBrite niche is a keyed twist-lock rather than a standard thread, and the P-Series' locking tabs and dual O-rings are built for it. No rewiring.
It depends on the bubbler. The Pentair ColorVision bubbler takes a GloBrite, so the P-Series drops in. The Jandy TruFit takes a HydroCool, so the J-Series or H-Series drops in. Hayward's ColorLogic bubbler takes the slide-in 320 or 160 and is not CaliGlow compatible. Bubblers with a built-in LED take no drop-in light at all.
Not as a supported swap. The 320 and 160 push into bare 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe and seal with an expanding compression gasket. A CaliGlow H-Series will slide into that pipe but sits loose: it has no compression gasket and no adapter exists. If you have a 320, the genuine replacement is the right answer, and we carry it in 50 and 100 ft.
The low voltage pool light transformer already feeding your old light: a listed Class 2 unit, 100 W or 300 W, putting out 12 to 14 VAC on a GFCI protected circuit. The light draws 19 W at most. On a long cord run use the 13 or 14 V tap to offset voltage drop.
No. Order the cord length that reaches: 50, 100 or 150 ft. Electrical code requires one unbroken cord from the fixture to the junction box, and a splice compromises the waterproof seal and the warranty.
A confident DIYer can swap a niche mounted light, and every manufacturer's manual documents the steps: breaker off, fish tape on the old cord, unthread, pull, pull the new cord back, thread in, connect. Pool electrical has code requirements, bonding, GFCI protection and the low voltage transformer among them, so when you are unsure, use a licensed pool pro.
Tell us what is in the wall and what runs your lights. Two minutes on the phone settles it, before you order.