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CaliGlow Pro is a 12 volt, color changing, nicheless LED pool and spa light that takes the place of a Pentair GloBrite or MicroBrite, a Jandy HydroCool or a J&J Color Splash VU. The P-Series speaks Pentair, the J-Series Jandy and the H-Series Hayward, each with a 50, 100 or 150 ft cord. Tell us the light you are replacing and what runs your lights, and we match the one that fits.
The name is on the face ring or the label on the cord at the junction box. A light that turns an eighth and lifts out is a GloBrite; one that unthreads is a MicroBrite, a HydroCool or a Color Splash.
The controller decides the series. If the pool already has working color lights, their brand is the answer: MicroBrites mean Pentair.
CaliGlow Pro is about twice the length of a MicroBrite. From the top thread of the wall fitting to where the pipe reduces to conduit, the plumbing needs 7 inches. A pool built with MicroBrites usually has it; a MicroBrite swapped in for old fiber optic lighting often does not.
The letter at the end of the part number says which protocol the light speaks. No letter is Jandy mode, P is Pentair mode, H is Hayward mode. S is the Savi series, and CaliGlow compatibility with it is unconfirmed.
Match the old light's cord: its length is printed on the label at the junction box end. Code allows no splice, so when it is close, size up.
P-Series speaks Pentair IntelliBrite. It is the light for a pool run by IntelliTouch, EasyTouch or IntelliCenter, and the one body that seats in Pentair's GloBrite twist-lock niche, a MicroBrite's threaded fitting or a ColorVision bubbler. Most replacement buyers are shopping P.
J-Series speaks Jandy WaterColors, for AquaLink and iAquaLink pools. It drops into the Jandy TruFit bubbler or any threaded 1-1/2 inch fitting, which is where a HydroCool in Jandy mode sits today.
H-Series speaks Hayward ColorLogic in the same Jandy body, for OmniLogic, ProLogic and Aqua Plus pools built with HydroCool fixtures in Hayward mode, and for new construction on Hayward automation. It is not a fit for the Hayward ColorLogic 320 or 160, which seal into bare pipe with a gasket the H-Series does not have.
Measure the conduit from the fitting to the junction box, not the distance across the deck. Code allows no splice, so the cord has to make it in one run. When it is close, size up: extra cord coils in the junction box, a short cord goes back in the box.
| Where the equipment pad sits | Typical run | Order |
|---|---|---|
| Beside the pool | Under 45 ft of conduit | 50 ft |
| Across the yard, most inground pools | 45 to 95 ft | 100 ft |
| A far pad or a long conduit route | 95 to 145 ft | 150 ft |
| Replacing a light | The old cord's length is on its label | Match it. A 30 ft GloBrite: call us |
900 lumens from a 2.2 inch face. Five fixed colors and seven shows, from the switch or the controller.
Sealed LED pool lights die of heat: pool owner forums put their life at two to four years, and nothing inside is serviceable. The core of a CaliGlow Pro is solid 316 stainless with machined grooves that pull pool water across it while the light runs, so the LED junction runs up to 40% cooler than a sealed polymer housing. It holds over 90% of its 900 lumens past 30,000 hours, on 19 watts, from the transformer the old light already used.
The P-Series seats in the Pentair GloBrite niche with locking tabs and dual O-rings, threads into a MicroBrite's 1-1/2 inch fitting, and drops into the ColorVision bubbler. The J and H drop into the Jandy TruFit bubbler or a threaded fitting, in place of a HydroCool in Jandy or Hayward mode. Two honest limits: a MicroBrite swap needs 7 inches of clearance behind the fitting, so measure before ordering, and the Hayward ColorLogic 320 and 160 are not a fit, because they seal into bare pipe with a gasket the H-Series does not carry. For those we stock the genuine ColorLogic 320, 50 ft and 100 ft.
From the owner's manual: the wall fitting, the pipe sleeve and the 7 inch minimum, fiberglass or vinyl on the left, gunite on the right.A CaliGlow Pro P-Series. The GloBrite niche is a keyed twist-lock rather than a standard thread, and the P-Series has the locking tabs and dual O-rings that seat in it. It speaks Pentair IntelliBrite and runs from the transformer the old light used, so there is no rewiring.
A CaliGlow Pro P-Series. It threads into the same 1-1/2 inch fitting as the MicroBrite, but its body is about twice as long and needs 7 inches of clearance behind the wall fitting. Measure before ordering, especially where the MicroBrite went in as a fiber optic conversion. Unsure? Call (888) 751-8084 and we will confirm the fit.
By how it comes out of the wall. A GloBrite sits in a twist-lock niche, so it turns an eighth of a turn and lifts out. A MicroBrite threads into a 1-1/2 inch wall fitting, so it unscrews. The name is also on the face ring, and on the label on the cord at the junction box. A CaliGlow Pro P-Series takes the place of either one; only the MicroBrite swap needs the 7 inches of clearance behind the fitting.
Heat decides it. An LED dims as it runs hot, and a sealed housing holds the heat in. A CaliGlow Pro is built around a solid 316 stainless core with machined grooves that pull pool water across it while the light runs, so the LED junction runs up to 40 percent cooler than it would in a sealed polymer housing, and the light holds over 90 percent of its 900 lumens past 30,000 hours.
A listed Class 2 low voltage pool light transformer, 100 W or 300 W, putting out 12 to 14 VAC on a GFCI protected circuit, which is usually the one already feeding the old light. A CaliGlow Pro draws 19 W at most. On a long cord run use the 13 or 14 V tap to offset voltage drop.
Not as a supported swap. The 320 and 160 push into bare 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe and seal with an expanding compression gasket. A CaliGlow H-Series will slide into that pipe but sits loose: it has no compression gasket and no adapter exists. If you have a 320, the genuine replacement is the right answer, and we carry it in 50 and 100 ft.
A confident DIYer can, and every manufacturer's manual documents the steps: breaker off, fish tape on the old cord, unthread the light, pull it, pull the new cord back, thread in, connect. Pool electrical has code requirements, bonding, GFCI protection and the low voltage transformer among them, so when you are unsure, use a licensed pool pro.
Tell us what is in the wall and what runs your lights. Two minutes on the phone settles it, before you order.